What to Start Seeding and Planting in March

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After a long winter of planning, strategizing, and buying seeds, you can finally start to plant this month. Most of that planting will happen inside, beginning the seedlings that will eventually move into your spring and summer garden. All the seeding tools like trays and heat mats come out of storage for a cleaning. As excited as you may be, it's important to exercise some restraint: You don't want to start all your seedlings at once. This is a game of timing. March only sees us starting a few spring seedings, as well as some seeds that take a long time. Everything else will get started next month.

Once you start seeding for yourself, you can also lean into succession planting, which means that instead of planting everything at once—and then being done at the end of the summer—you plant throughout the spring and summer, and your harvests are staggered. For instance, it would be nice to have radishes ready to eat for a number of weeks, not a flush of them all at once. You can do this with lettuce and beans and flowers and all kinds of "short" crops (so called because they can be grown in less than 90 days).

Onions, potatoes, and asparagus

While it might not feel like these items are related, they are in the simplest way: You won’t be putting seeds in the ground. Onions you'll purchase from a nursery in a bundle of 25 or so five-inch starts, ready to go into the ground. (These are keeping onions, not scallions.) They go into the ground in long troughs you dig in the dirt.

Potatoes will look like, well, potatoes, but you can cut each potato into many pieces, so long as each piece has at least one eye. Cut them the night before planting, and then allow them to heal over by leaving them out on a tray in the open air. These pieces get planted in your potato bed about a foot apart, then covered with compost and mulch.

Asparagus come as crowns from your nursery, which look like sad desiccated roots when you buy them. But rest assured, these roots, once planted, produce actual asparagus. You plant them in a trench, not unlike roses, and they will make a perennial bed, coming back spring after spring. Asparagus needs three years of growth before you can harvest any spears, so while you could grow this plant from seed, buying these two- or three-year-old crowns gives you a jump start.

Every kind of pea

If you do one thing this month, it should be getting peas into the soil. The best news is that peas are incredibly hard to screw up. You stick the seeds (which are large and easy to work with) in the soil. There are two kinds of peas to consider. Sweet peas, which are inedible and toxic but gorgeous and sweet-smelling, and their edible brethren can all be directly seeded outside right now. Plant both, but keep them separate, so you can tell them apart. For edible peas, make sure to plant shelling peas, snap peas, and sugar peas. You can, if you want, give them a head start by growing starts inside, and they’ll generally be ready to plant out in two weeks. Plant a second bunch of peas two weeks after the first so you have a spring succession. Peas need a structure to climb, so plant them on an arch or trellis. Best of all, both edible and sweet peas give your garden early color. 

Fast-rotation crops

There are certain crops I have going constantly all season, like lettuces, radishes, scallions, and carrots. I make sure that as soon as the ground is workable, I am putting out a short row of radishes and scallions. I seed a few lettuces each week at this point, and all of this can take place outside. Carrots aren’t fast, but you can get a number of successions in during the summer, and they’ll germinate easier while you have a lot of rain. Get a row of them in every few weeks, starting now. 

Strawberries

Heed my cry: You never, ever need to buy strawberry plants. They multiply like tribbles, and you likely have enough from last year to relocate to anyplace you need them this year. You need to thin them yearly anyway so that each has at least six to eight inches around it. Even if you somehow do not have the supply, someone in your neighborhood does. Remember you want both June-bearing, which produces the sweetest berries but only for a short time, and ever-bearing, which produces bigger berries for the whole summer.

Short spring crops

Inside, I’m seeding cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, spinach, kohlrabi, and chard to go outside as soon as they’re ready, since they’re all cold-hardy. Spinach, in particular, loves the cold. Outside, I'm seeding beets and more kohlrabi into the ground. (The kohlrabi I'm seeding inside will go out in a few weeks, and have a later harvest date. This is a great example of succession planting.)

Long summer crops

Two crops that don’t get enough attention this time of year—but must be planted now in order to have enough time to mature by winter—are parsnips and Brussels sprouts. Both of these crops take the entire spring and summer to grow enough to be ready by fall. Plant parsnip seeds directly in the soil outside now, and pick up Brussels sprout starts at the nursery.

Summer crops

Some summer specialties require a longer nurturing stage, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. But you absolutely cannot put them outside without protection like Agribon or a greenhouse until temperatures are 50 degrees at night, and that can be a long time from now. Your planting date will be determined by your growing zone and last frost date—all things you can easily google. You’ll have to house, feed, and water these babies until then. Every moment they’re in your care, they are susceptible to pests, virus, fungus, and interference from family pets. You may see professionals getting their seeds in now—I’ll start mine in late March—but I have a greenhouse to move them to. Many people wait until April, and you shouldn’t feel anxious about doing so.

Peppers first, then tomatoes, and finally eggplants. They’ll go into 50-cell trays to start, two seeds per cell. Within the first few weeks, I'll have ruthlessly cut the weaker seedling from each cell so the stronger seedling can thrive (do not try to separate them to save them both; learn to let go) and will be up-potting them into four-inch pots by the time they’re six weeks old. I don’t seed other summer crops like pumpkins, corn, or beans until late April or May. 

Flowers

What I do try to get an early start on now is flowers. I want as many as possible, and as big and healthy as possible before I put them in the ground. I start with the earliest flowers now—snapdragons, poppies, Bells of Ireland, larkspur, dianthus, bachelor buttons, Love-in-a-Mist, and celosia. These are the most stubborn to grow and are spring-hardy, so the early start is warranted. You’ll be able to move them out relatively early in the season to make room for zinnias and sunflowers, which will be seeded later in the season. I plant these in trays of 72 or 128 cells.

No matter how eager you are to plant all winter, when March hits, it often feels like you're behind. I assure you, you have time. It's still early, and if you don't have time to seed, you'll still be able to purchase starts at the nursery.

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