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Welcome to “Cookbook of the Week.” This is a series where I highlight cookbooks that are unique, easy to use, or just special to me. While finding a particular recipe online serves a quick purpose, flipping through a truly excellent cookbook has a magic all its own.
Cookbooks don’t really teach you how to cook. Instead they offer a collection of recipes that you (hopefully) like. If you find one, though, with recipes that serve as inspiration for adapting and modifying to create even more new recipes—well, that’s a real gem.
The cookbooks I find myself going back to time and again make a wee inspiration library. Sometimes I use their recipes, and sometimes I find a flavor combination or cooking method I’ll get excited to use later in the week. But it is rare that a cookbook breaks down how a chef thinks about recipe creation. This week I chose Kitchen Matrix for my cookbook of the week because it’s unlike any other cookbook I’ve seen before. It’s a cookbook with major lessons on how to cook.
A bit about the book
This book comes from Mark Bittman, a legendary food journalist and author (read more about him here). Although this cookbook isn’t new—it was published in 2015—the message is timeless: Cooking is an endless spectrum. A single recipe exists on a branch of an ingredient’s sprawling family tree. Ok, enough romance: let me explain.
The pages of Kitchen Matrix are filled with recipes, yes, but directly following one recipe will be how to riff in three to 12 different ways. Essentially, how to make a whole new meal by swapping the main ingredient, or what you get when you change the cooking method from grilling to steaming. It reveals the connection between different dishes within a food set. For example, how only two or three ingredients separate minestrone from mushroom soup from tomato and garlic soup. The cooking method is the same; it’s a matter of swapping this for that. When you see it displayed in the clever way Bittman has arranged these sections, the art of cooking suddenly clicks into a clear science.
A great book for the confident cook
Just because someone is a confident cook doesn’t mean they can’t enjoy a good cookbook. Kitchen Matrix is more like Cooking 201 versus Cooking 101. It’s best for someone who already feels good about getting around the kitchen, using various cooking methods, trying out new flavors, and taking risks. There’s plenty of inspiration in this cookbook and a lot for the confident cook to get excited about.
That said, many of the recipe spin-offs are written in what I’ll call a recipe shorthand, while other recipes are written out in a full version—with an ingredient list and steps underneath. For example, with the section “Corn +12 ways” you’ll get a short recipe equating to “Mix this, this, and this together. Cook it until browned.” Then two recipe variations underneath where only the swapped ingredients are indicated.
Seasoned cooks will be able to connect the dots, while I think the missing information could be extremely confusing for many other home cooks.
The recipes you can expect
I like that many of the chapters are split up by main ingredients, like Meat, Vegetables, or Poultry and Eggs. Within each chapter will be a mini section dedicated to major popular items that fit in the section. For the Vegetable section you can flip to Salad Greens +12 Ways, Celery +16 Ways, or Vegan Entrees +10 Ways, among many others.
This speaks to my nightly cooking habit of discovering I have six zucchini that are about to get weird, so I need a zucchini-centric meal STAT. I can simply flip to Zucchini +12 Ways and pick between raw, grilled, microwaved, or sautéed and have three recipes each at the ready. Even if I had more squash than one recipe required, at least I have 11 different choices for tomorrow’s meals. That’s support. It’s like un-creepy AI (if you can imagine). I feel like this cookbook has my back when I need it.
My favorite feature of Kitchen Matrix is the Recipe Generator. There are a few of them throughout the book, and they’re double page visual diagrams of popular meals—like Sandwich Recipe Generator, Tartar Recipe Generator, Grain Salad, Eggs, Jam—and they show you the components that are involved along with options so you can create your own. Prof. Bittman wants you to learn to create your own recipes. As a former teacher witnessing beautiful diagrams, I wipe a single tear from my eye.
The dish I made this week
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but it’s winter and hell has frozen over. I’ve been in a soup mood. I flipped over to Soups and Stews, and landed on the Vegetable soups. I adore soups for all meals, and this section’s matrix consisted of Creamy, Brothy, Bean, and Vegetable. I can never turn down a creamy soup, so I turned my attention there. The main recipe was for a creamy spinach soup, and underneath it were the two variations: curried cauliflower, or squash and ginger.
I chose curried cauliflower. The main recipe for spinach soup had simple directions. Basically, cook the garlic and onion in water, then add the spinach and yogurt before puréeing it all. The cauliflower soup instructed me to swap out a few ingredients: garlic for ginger, spinach for cauliflower, parsley for curry powder, and yogurt for coconut milk. I did just that, but using the same method from the spinach recipe.
The soup was a golden-hued hug. Creamy without any cream, thick without being gloppy, and boosted with just enough spice to compliment the cauliflower’s natural flavors. It was a reminder that great soup can be drop-dead simple, and as a result, I know how to make 11 other simple soups. That’s enough to get me through the winter.
How to buy it
Kitchen Matrix is available online, as an ebook (for a bargain), and keep in mind that you can support your local brick and mortar bookstores by asking them to order it to their location if they don’t have it in stock.
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