The SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro Is the Most Renter-Friendly Smart Lock I've Ever Used

I've been renting most of my life until very recently, and if the SwitchBot Lock Pro had been around for all those years, I probably wouldn't have locked myself out as much or dropped stuff on my doorstep while fumbling for my keys. I've been using the SwitchBot Lock Pro on my home and Airbnb for months now, and it has been the easiest smart lock I have installed. Since I got the the upgraded "WiFi Lock Pro & Touch" bundle (it was sent to me for a review), I was able to control it remotely, give access to guests, and hook it up to my existing smart home ecosystem.

SwitchBot WiFi Smart Lock Pro Bundle

With Keypad Touch, Fingerprint Keyless Entry Door Lock, Bluetooth Electronic Deadbolt, IP65 rated.

$199.99 at Amazon

$199.99 at Amazon

Pros and cons of the SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro

Pros

• Works with many door lock types

• Has auto-lock feature

• Has a status detector that notifies you of door activity

• Easy installation and no tools required

• You keep your existing lock hardware and keys

Cons

• Requires buying a hub and keypad separately to get all features (included in bundle)

• The glue might damage the door paint when taking off

Specs:

• Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wifi

• Unlock mechanism: Keypad, fingerprint, phone, or key card

• Integrations: Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant, IFTTT

• Installation: Interior escutcheon

• App: Mobile

• Geofencing/Location Services: No

• Guest Access: Yes

• Tamper Alarm: Yes

• Touchpad: Yes

• Voice Activation: Yes

The SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro is easy to set up

The longest part of setting up the SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro was reading the instructions. The installation itself took me about seven minutes. As I said, I got to keep my existing lock hardware and keys. All I needed to do to start was remove the lock faceplate from inside my home.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

Once I took the faceplate off, I screwed in the lock bracket. Then I got to choose from three different adapter bolts to match my existing lock hardware cylinders.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

Once I finished that, I snapped the Smart Lock Pro on the bracket and attached it with some very small screws (there is an L-shaped hex wrench in the box to do this). Then I peeled the sticker off the motion sensor, glued it on the wall next to the door, popped four AA batteries in, downloaded the app, and calibrated the smart lock using the app, and I was done.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

The keypad has a code, fingerprint, and key card option to unlock the SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro. To install it, there are two options: peel the sticker off the back to glue it to the wall or drill two holes for a more permanent and safe alternative. The glue is very strong and had no problem staying on my block wall through rain or with Airbnb guests using it. However, it is still glue. It ripped the paint off my wall when I took it off and anyone with a will to take it can steal it. The app does have a tamper alert, which works as a deterrent.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

The piece that takes the SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro to the next level is the SwitchBot Hub Mini. This device makes it possible for me to use my SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro and keypad over wifi when I'm away from home instead of just Bluetooth. There is a catch though: the SwitchBot Hub Mini must be within Bluetooth range of the Smart Lock Pro and keypad. I have the hub about 10 feet from my smart lock, but my other SwitchBot devices in my detached garage or second floor do not reach the hub, meaning if I wanted to control those remotely, I would need to buy multiple hubs.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

Once everything is set up, I can open and close the door over Bluetooth when I'm close to the door, remotely over wifi, by swiping my finger on the keypad, or by using a key card fob that comes with the keypad. I also get phone notifications any time the door is opened or closed because of the motion sensor.

The SwitchBot Smart Lock Pro is perfect for renters and Airbnb hosts

The easy setup, the ability to keep the existing keys and lock hardware, and being able to glue the keypad make Smart Lock Pro very convenient for renters. Once the installation is done, the setup looks like the picture below. If your landlord wants to show up unannounced with their keys, they might not even notice there's a smart lock set up. Just be ready to potentially have to paint over the wall where you removed the keypad.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

I've had many guests stay and use the temporary code to get in and haven't had a problem yet. The process is very straightforward and user-friendly. The finger swiping is very responsive and rarely fails (so far only when it has rained and my finger was wet).

The SwitchBot App

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

The app is responsive and user-friendly. It has all the features you need like setting a temporary code, setting the auto-lock, changing the trigger actions on the smart lock, alarms if the door is left ajar or unlocked, and more. The app tells you how much battery is left on the device and sends you a notification when it's running low so you can change it before getting a sour surprise. The app is also compatible with Google, Amazon, IFTTT, and Siri.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

One of my favorite parts is being able to send temporary codes to guests over wifi without being physically in the house. As an Airbnb host, this is super helpful, but so is being able to send it to someone in your home if there are cleaners, a maintenance person, or if the neighbor is kind enough to put an Amazon package inside for you.

Credit: Daniel Oropeza

Finishing thoughts

The SwitchBot WiFi Smart Lock Pro Bundle is a versatile and user-friendly smart lock, perfect for people who rent. Its ease of installation is second to none and can be done by even the least DIY-able person. Because the installation is not invasive, it is very easy to remove and bring to the next home with no damage or permanent changes to the door (except maybe some paint if you opt to install it with very strong glue). The smart lock is also compatible with many types of hardware, so if you're concerned the one you have at home might be tricky, give this one a shot. The door monitor lets you know when the door is open or closed and logs all of that i

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Amazon's First Color Kindle Is Here

Like Kleenex and tissues, Amazon’s Kindle brand has become synonymous with e-readers as a whole. That's why it’s surprising that, up until now, Kindle has been missing one big feature: color. Companies like Rakuten’s Kobo have been offering color for months now, but with today’s announcement of the Kindle Colorsoft, Amazon is finally catching up. Don’t care about color? The company’s also adding AI to the Kindle Scribe, plus making its other models a bit faster.

Overall, this is a relaunch of the whole Kindle lineup, with new additions across four devices. But the Colorsoft is easily the most interesting one. Shipping on Oct. 30 for $279 (and available for pre-order now), this is the third color e-ink release from a major brand, following in the wake of Rakuten and Remarkable. It’s got a seven-inch adjustable frontlit display, and while Amazon hasn’t been clear about exactly how many shades it can display, it’s built on E Ink’s Kaleido technology but with “custom formulated coatings between the display layers to enhance the color.”

Credit: Amazon

In a hands-on test with the Colorsoft, Lifehacker sister publication PCMag wrote that the “color is pretty muted,” so it’s definitely still not going to be for everyone. It’s also not certain that Amazon’s custom additions do much for fidelity, with PCMag saying, “color seems to be on par with other e-readers we’ve tested.” Still, there might be something here for enthusiasts—maybe those who use a lot of color highlights or want more natural looking comic books (at the cost of vibrancy). Amazon promises that the Colorsoft doesn’t just enhance colors, but also has faster page turns thanks to an oxide backplane. PCMag says the screen is “very fast,” only “maybe a hair slower than the new Paperwhite.” That could make the Colorsoft a better experience than other color e-readers.

Credit: Amazon

I’ll get to that new Paperwhite—but first, the new Kindle Scribe. This is Amazon’s second crack at an e-note, with the same 10.2-inch screen as the previous model, but now with a white bezel and a texture that’s supposed to feel more like paper. Inside, it’s also got some generative AI tricks, plus a new “Active Canvas” feature that’s supposed to make it easier to put notes in your text.

Active Canvas seems to be a way to make up for the inability to directly write on most documents, which bafflingly still isn’t here on the new Scribe. It lets you write on the screen, after which your writing will get pushed into a little box and your document’s text will align around it. You can also expand margins to anchor your notes to text without realigning it, and Amazon promises you’ll eventually also be able to write notes in the side panel and quickly hide them.

It’s a bit odd that the most obvious use case for an e-note—letting you write directly on your books—still isn’t here, especially since this is Amazon’s only Kindle with a stylus. Instead, you’ve got two new generative AI additions, including one that summarizes your handwritten notes and one that aims to make your handwriting a bit more readable. PCMag didn’t get a chance to test these, so keep an eye out for the Scribe’s Dec. 4 release date for more info. The e-note will be priced at $399, and pre-orders are available now.

Finally, there’s a couple of small updates for Amazon’s more basic e-readers. The 12th generation Paperwhite is largely the same, but with a slightly larger seven-inch display, a slightly thinner body, and what Amazon says is “25% faster page turns.” The standard Kindle, meanwhile, has a new “Matcha” light green color and is slightly brighter and faster. Both the 12th gen Paperwhite and the updated standard Kindle are available now, with the Paperwhite starting at $159 and the base Kindle costing $109.

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You Should Start Canning (It’s Easier Than You Think)

Now that I’ve been canning for some 20 years, I love teaching it to other people. However, the USDA learns new things every year, and as such, canning rules occasionally change. Some of those changes in the last 10 years have made canning a lot more efficient and much less painful. (I've also got my own hacks, which I'll share here.)

Canning makes foods shelf-stable

At a basic level, canning is exposing cooked food to pressurized heat for a long enough time, at enough pressure, to kill any pathogens, seal the jars and make the food shelf-stable. Now, you can’t just can anything. Foods must have a certain acidity to be safe, and be prepared in a specific way to prevent dangerous bacteria from cultivating in your jars. Additionally, you have to use specific jars meant for canning. There are still a handful of botulism cases every year, and it is a wildly painful and sometimes deadly infliction. The USDA and Ball (the company that produces most canning supplies, and a canning authority) both produce safe recipes to follow if you’re starting out. There is specialized equipment like pressure canners that are necessary to safely process some foods. Tomatoes can be processed at a lower temperature and pressure, so you don’t need a pressure canner for those. But canned tuna and other acidic products require the pressure canner. 

No more pre-sterilizing jars and lids

It used to be that in addition to cooking the jam or sauce going into the jars, you had to spend a lot of time prepping the jars: sterilizing them, handling the hot jars, and then sterilizing the lids. All of this handling hot metal and glass meant extra time and danger. Newer regulations, however, give you some leeway. The USDA now says you don’t need to sterilize jars if you are going to be processing them for longer than 10 minutes. Since I’ve yet to find a single recipe that requires less than 10 minutes of processing, you can clean your jars well (a dishwasher is perfect for this) and use them straight away. 

In more good news, Ball, the maker of most jars and lids, decided in 2014 that it was no longer advised to boil lids before use. Once food is in your jars, use clean hands to place a lid on the jar, and then seal with the canning ring.

Can in the size jar you’ll use

Most recipes and pictures show everything canned in quart size jars. A quart is a lot, unless you have a family. If you’re canning for one or two, don’t be afraid to use smaller-size jars. Each year, I can my tomato sauce in smaller and smaller jars, because that’s how much I use for a meal for one. I can my pickles in half pints, because if I’m making burgers, I want just enough pickles for that, without having to store a whole jar in my fridge after. Jars come in a million sizes, so think carefully about what you’ll really use. Don’t can ketchup in a pint size, for instance—you won’t use it fast enough. Same for jam.  

You can sous vide your pickles

As I mentioned earlier, different foods have different needs for processing. Some foods need a pressure canner, but low-acid foods like pickles can simply be processed using boiling water in a large canning pot. Still, this is a lot of hot water and heat and glass. Lesley Kinzel wrote about sous vide canning for pickles a few years ago and now it is the only method I use. It is gentler on the pickles themselves, resulting in better crunch; it also means less hot water and less heat in the kitchen, all while meeting all the requirements for processing. 

Label, label, label

You think you’ll remember what’s in a jar, but I promise you, you won’t. All jam looks the same. All tomato products look the same. You also want the date on each jar, since most jars have a two-year shelf life. I just write on the lids, which are not reusable, with a Sharpie. But if you’re looking for a nicer presentation, consider dissolvable labels. Any other kind of label is miserable to get off your jars. But I do think you use should regular labels, too, for one purpose: Make small labels with your name on them and affix them to the bottom of your jars. This is your assurance you’ll get your jars back when you inevitably gift them away. 

Make sure you're storing cans the right way

Part of canning is storing those jars the right way, because you need the lids to stay sealed. So often I see people stacking jars, which is an absolute no-no. There are two things you need to remember: First, remove the canning ring before storage. This may seem counterintuitive, but the jars are fully sealed with the lid (and if they didn’t fully seal, they need to be used immediately or the contents tossed). Leaving the ring on may give you false confidence in a lid that has popped by concealing that it’s happened. So, remove the rings before storage; they’re meant to be reused over and over. Second, when stacking jars, you must put something between them, like cardboard. The boxes that jars come in are perfect for this, which is why most people hold onto them, and use them for storage.

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You Can Get AdGuard on Sale for $19 Right Now

You can get an AdGuard lifetime subscription on sale for $18.97 right now (reg. $79.99). It’s an ad blocker that helps stop annoying pop-ups, banners, and video ads, and this family plan covers nine of your devices. You can use it on iOS, Android, Mac, and Windows mobile and desktop devices. AdGuard also hides your personal and important data from online trackers and activity analyzers, and it comes with parental controls if you need to hide inappropriate content from kids. The deal is only available to new users, though.

You can get an AdGuard lifetime subscription on sale for $18.97 right now through October 27 at 11:59 p.m. PT (reg. $79.99) right now, though prices can change at any time.

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What the Rumors Say About Apple’s Mac Plans

If it happens, Apple's next event will be its last major launch of the year. The rumor mill expects Apple to hold their next keynote near the end of October, and according to Mark Gurman, new devices will start shipping on Nov. 1st.

Apple isn't doing a great job at keeping these details under wraps, either. We even have a full device leak in form of the M4 MacBook Pro, something that hasn't happened since the days of the iPhone 4. If you're on the fence of buying a MacBook or Mac mini, you really should hold off until the end of the month.

M4 MacBook Pro, now with 16GB RAM

We have now seen several unboxing videos of the new base model M4 MacBook Pro. This is the most interesting update here, because it looks like the base MacBook Pro will finally shift to 16GB of RAM, along with the upgraded M4 processor. (Currently, only the iPad Pros come with the M4 chip.) Previously MacBook Pros at this price point started with 8GB of RAM, which, while enough for some, was too little memory for many professional uses.

Apple is also adding an extra Thunderbolt port to the right side of this machine, and it will come in Space Black for the first time. (This color was reserved for more expensive Pro models last generation.) At a base price of $1,599, this no longer sounds like a compromise MacBook, especially with the powerful M4 chip. This might even persuade some MacBook Air users to pay the $500 extra for the higher-quality screen, additional RAM, and new design.

Plus, the more expensive MacBook Pros will also get M4 upgrades, but with M4 Pro and M4 Max chips.

M4 Mac mini, in a redesigned, smaller form factor

If you own an Apple TV, take a good look at it. The talk of the town is the new Mac mini is going to share a similar form factor to Apple's streaming box. We don't know the dimensions yet, but rumors suggest it will be a much smaller design, with ports at the front for the first time. (This was a big hit with the Mac Studio). We may get 16GB of base RAM here, too, which would make this a seriously powerful and budget-friendly machine. It will ship with M4 and M4 Pro chips.

M4 iMac, with a small bump

The iMac may also be updated with the M4 chip, and 16GB of RAM for the base mode. Other than that, there likely won't be anything new here.

However, it is possible that Apple will finally update the iMac accessories like the Magic Keyboard, Magic Mouse, and Magic Trackpad with USB-C ports instead of Lightning connector. Apple's deadline in the EU for transitioning to USB-C for all its products is rapidly approaching, so it would only make sense for the company to finally make the switch.

iPad mini 7 is out already

The iPad mini was rumored to finally launch at this supposed October event. However, it seems like Apple couldn't wait. In a press release, Apple announced the latest iPad mini, which features the same 8.3-inch Liquid Retina Display as the previous model, but now has an A17 Pro chip inside. This is significantly more powerful than the A15 Bionic Chip from the iPad mini 6, which enables this new iPad mini to run Apple Intelligence. The base model, which still costs $499, now has 128GB storage, up from 64GB.

The rumors indicated that Apple will finally fix the "jelly scrolling" issue that plagues the screen in portrait orientation. The right side of the iPad mini 6 display refreshes faster than the left one, so when you're scrolling, you're left with a "jelly" or "wave-like" effect. It wasn't a dealbreaker, but it was a bit of a bummer for such a premium product. We won't know if Apple fixed this issue on the latest mini until we get some hands-on testing time with the unit.

For everything else, there's 2025

Even after the above updates, many of Apple's devices will be left out of the M4 refresh. That's okay: According to Gurman, Apple is slowly moving away from its annual product release cycle, starting with updates to Macs and iPads.

The first half of the year may see M4 upgrades for the 13-inch and 15-inch MacBook Airs, and the 11-inch and 13-inch iPad Airs. Apple may also refresh the iPhone SE, along with new AirTags.

But based on the rumors right now, the Mac Studio with M4 chip won't be out until middle of next year, perhaps by WWDC in June. The Mac Pro may be the last to get the upgrade at the end of 2025.

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These Smart Doorbells and Cameras Are About to Start Recording 24/7

As video doorbells and smart cameras have proliferated on the consumer market over the last 15 years, most have reported activity they pick up via motion detection through clips—short video recordings of fifteen seconds to a minute long. You receive a notification on your phone, tap it, and are delivered that short clip to review.

While that process can present a few issues—sometimes activity can happen outside the time limit for clips—it has mostly worked by balancing what consumers want to see without draining the camera's battery too quickly. However, in the last month, a number of security brands have announced what they’re calling “continuous recording,” or the ability for these devices to record 24/7. Here's what that might look like.

Continuous monitoring is new to the consumer market, but not for businesses

Reolink first announced that their Altas PT Ultra would offer continuous monitoring back in September 2024. Later, on October 2, Ring announced that a variety of their devices would also begin to offer the same. Continuous monitoring is hardly new, and a number of devices have previously offered it, including the E330 eufyCam 24/7 security camera and the Arlo Pro 4, as do all Unifi cameras. But most of these cameras are considered to be for “professional use"—that is, for businesses. The introduction of this feature for Ring and Reolink on models specifically for consumers reveals a shift in what people are looking for from their security monitoring devices. 

I asked Ring if this change was prompted by customers. Eric Kuhn, Ring’s general manager of subscriptions and services confirmed, “This has been one of our most requested features and provides customers added peace of mind," adding “24/7 Recording can help with notification fatigue: When you enable 24/7 Recording, you can reduce your motion detection sensitivity while maintaining the confidence that you’ll never miss a moment.” 

As a Ring user myself, and someone who has tested a ton of security cameras, this rings true: I have occasionally been slow to recharge my doorbell batteries, and I'm happy for a break from getting so many notifications to sift through. 

How notifications will work with continuous monitoring

In Ring’s case, you won’t be losing out on notifications altogether: You’ll still receive video preview alerts, so you can see what triggered the camera’s detection. You will then receive a short clip. The difference is that now you’ll be able to see what happened before and after that clip, to get more context. These features fall under new subscriptions as well: Ring Protect is now “Ring Home,” with three service tiers, but the prices haven’t changed: Home Basic ($4.99/month), Home Standard ($9.99/month), and Home Premium ($19.99/month).

To make finding events in your newly voluminous video library easier, Ring is introducing an AI-based smart video search that will be available starting November 11, 2024. This will allow customers to search via text strings like “blue balloon” instead of only being able to surf through event clips. Search will recognize a variety of parameters, like animals, locations, packages, people, time, vehicles, and weather.

Wifi and power needs will be greater

It seems clear that 24/7 monitoring will eventually become a standard in consumer cameras and doorbells, which raises some new questions. One of the aspects not mentioned in any press release touting continuous monitoring cameras is how the shift will affect wifi or battery load. In professional settings, cameras are almost always installed with continuous power, either directly wired or connected via PoE (power over ethernet), whereas many consumers rely on battery power.

Ring's press release states that continuous monitoring will only be available on "eligible wired cameras," indicating that if you want to take advantage, you'll likely have to do a bit more upfront installation work. Unfortunately, my own Ring cameras aren't wired nor connected to PoE, so I'm likely out of luck.

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You Can Get This Phantom A9 E-Scooter on Sale for $270 Right Now

You can get this refurbished Phantom A9 e-scooter on sale for $269.99 right now with free shipping (reg. $629). The scooter can travel up to 15mph for up to 28 miles and comes with an LCD display that shows speed mode, battery life, and cruise control status, and you can pair the scooter to an app to use an electronic lock and track your rides. It also has automatic headlights, sidelights, and brake lights, and you can fold the scooter up for easy storage when you’re done. It's currently 57% off because it’s a refurbished model, but it’s in grade “A” condition, so it’ll arrive in near-mint shape.

You can get this refurbished Phantom A9 e-scooter on sale for $269.99 right now with free shipping (reg. $629), though prices can change at any time, and availability is limited.

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How to Care for Your Chickens When They Start Laying Eggs

Back in late spring, I quadrupled the number of sentient beings I’m responsible for when I picked up four chicks at the local farm store and installed them in my dining room in a brooder. Those four harbingers of mayhem now reside in a fancy backyard coop, and about three weeks ago, stopped freeloading by presenting me with a few adorably colored eggs each day. My little chicks are now full grown ladies and so a bunch of changes and considerations had to be made. Once your chickens start laying (and this should be happening about now if you got spring chickens), here are the things you want to think about.

Marsala and Kiev, lounging Credit: Amanda Blum

Your chicken celebrates life cycles, too

Up until 20 weeks, chicks are considered to be in the grower/starter stage. Once they start laying, or at 20 weeks (this usually coincides) they graduate to the layer stage. Chickens generally stay in that phase for three years, and while production will begin to drop off at the end of that time, some chickens do continue laying well into their later years, although it will be far less frequently. According to Sean Warner, CEO of Grubbly Farms—which sells products for backyard poultry—there’s actually a growing population of older chickens that he calls “elder chickens," meaning they no longer produce eggs, but are being kept as pets. As Sean pointed out, most COVID chickens (the chicks everyone bought during a lockdown boom on backyard poultry) are now elder chickens. 

Their food needs to change

Up until this point, your chickens have been chowing down on starter feed and chick grit. At 20 weeks, regardless of whether your chickens are laying or not, you should switch to layer feed, according to Warner. “Your chickens might be late in development if they’re not getting all their nutritional needs met”, he explained. Chicken feed comes in either starter feed or layer feed, and they have different nutritional content. Your laying birds are going to need more calcium, as well as the right amount of protein and carbohydrates. 

The first week of eggs, which come in a huge variety in sizes, color and shape. Credit: Amanda Blum

The importance of grit and oyster shells

When my chicks were a few weeks old, I began adding "chick grit" to their food. Grit plays an essential role in helping chickens break down and digest their feed. When your chickens become layers, they graduate to regular grit, which contains larger particles. Equally important is the addition of oyster shells or another source of high-level calcium for your laying chickens. I was surprised by how enthusiastic my birds were for their new snack—and it had an almost immediate effect on egg quality, too. 

Chickens are smart eaters

From what I’d read, chickens need about a pound of oyster shells a month, so I was almost offended by the rudeness of my feathered guests when they pounded five pounds of oyster shells in a few weeks. However, Warner explained something fascinating about chickens I didn’t know: They are fabulous self-regulators. They eat what they need. If the chickens are eating that much crushed oyster, they need the calcium (remember, eggs are 96% calcium). The food-shaming in my coop ceased immediately (I swear). It’s an all-you-can-eat oyster-shell fest these days.

By the way, your eggs can also be helpful in understanding if the chickens have calcium issues. Eggs that are oblong, misshapen or spotted can be signs of egg binding or blockage, both results of too much or not enough calcium.

The other fascinating tidbit Warner offered was that chickens can’t taste their food, so they’re fully visual eaters. They want to eat something that looks appealing, so recognition helps. This is part of why some people choose crumbles instead of pellets for their feed. Pellets tend to be easier for coop owners to manage, but crumbles are more attractive to chickens, and if you have chickens with smaller beaks, they're easier for them to consume.  

How important are supplements for backyard birds? 

I naively believed I’d be buying some chicken feed and calling it a day when I acquired these chickens, and am now often confronted when shopping online for feed with supplements and additional inputs I should consider for my chickens. I asked Warner what was actually considered “essential” for your backyard flock. While Grubbly Farms sells both a probiotic and a vitamin supplement for water, Warner explained that these are best used preventatively during times of impending stress: change of seasons, when introducing new birds, or when moving. You should consider boosting your birds immune system for a few weeks leading up to these events, rather than using these supplements year round. While, of course, you can use these supplements all the time, they wouldn’t be considered “essential.” Birds experience events like molting as they move into winter, and at these times, the additional nutrition in supplements—like biotin, which helps with moisture retention—can be beneficial. Probiotics and vitamins can help prevent flock problems like “pasty butt,” a common coop problem. Additional supplements like “mixed herbs” are likely less helpful. Warner felt similarly about products like “coop conditioner,” meant to offset coop smells. Warner offered, “If you are buying quality food, there’s no need, they’re not offering as large a benefit.”

Snacks are important

Warner also talked about the utility of snacks for your birds. If you’re interested in quality of life, chickens need enrichment, so pecking blocks, seeds or snacks like Grubblies—which have proteins, fats, thiamine and lysine—should be part of their diet. Warner had a good point, too. Since chickens self-regulate intake of nutrients, the calcium in treats like Grubblies mean your chickens will consume less oyster shell. Since I have already invested in a swing and a xylophone for my flock, it was a real no-brainer that I’d be adding snacks. The chickens seem appreciative based on how often they now knock at the back door. 

How to get omega-enriched eggs

All it takes to get omega-enriched eggs is supplementing your chickens' diet. There are specific mixes like Grubbly Farm’s Omega topper to do so: They include ingredients like flax seed, dried carrots to boost the omega 3s and omega 6s in your birds, which they pass onto the eggs.

Winter preparations go beyond food

As your chicken is exposed to less light during the winter, they lay fewer eggs (chickens need 14-16 hours of light a day for egg production). Farmers sometime use artificial light to boost egg supply through the winter, but common thought these days is that ethically, it’s a bad idea. Your chickens need the winter to rest. Warner agreed with this assessment, but also pointed out that a far bigger problem with artificial lighting is the safety issue of having an electric device near your chickens and flammable bedding. (This was disappointing to me, since my chickens have a fan they like to fluff in front of in summer, and I had planned to move in some sun beds for the winter.)

To settle in for winter, your chickens need to be able to huddle in their bedding, which means ensuring there’s enough of it, and it’s clean. You absolutely need to ensure your chickens have access to water regardless of temperature, so if the temp will drop below 30F, you’ll need a plan B. Warner suggested keeping a ping pong ball in your water—the wind will blow it around and prevent the top layer from freezing. 

Keeping your chickens well-fed is good for you, too

As adorable as my tiny dinosaurs are, I deeply resisted becoming attached to them. One could turn out to be a rooster (which are not allowed in city limits), plus I have occasional raccoons in my yard and a Doberman who is three brain cells away from figuring out that chickens = chicken nuggets. But as the summer has worn on, I have been unable to resist how charming Korma, Kiev, Marsala and Cacciatore are. They free roam the backyard during the day, pecking at my back door; are very excited to see me; and tolerate a lot of chicken hugs. Yes, I do benefit from the eggs, but mostly I arrange them into beautiful ombre six packs and give them away. The eggs are delicious, to be sure, but the joy I've gotten from my flock has been immeasurable for my mental health, which is why I suspect there are as many "elder birds" as Warner purports. I can easily see myself aging alongside these four idiots—hopefully someone will buy me a swing and xylophone.

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The Surprising Benefits of Skipping Fall Yard Cleanup

I tend to get an itch starting in late July to start fall cleanup. I’ll prune the spent raspberries and mow down the spent strawberry beds, and take down the sweet peas. By the time fall rolls around I’m spending a few hours a day doing yard work, taking down trellises, turning over beds, pruning perennials and tidying things for winter. Until last year, when I just … didn’t.  Instead I adopted a dog, took her for a few weeks to sunny Arizona to sit by a pool, and generally ignored things. Spoiler: It turned out fine. 

Your yard might surprise you in the spring

Now, to be sure, there are benefits to fall cleanup, which has many parts: pruning shrubs and trees, turning over beds by removing annuals or spent plants and planting new ones, composting, mulching, seed saving, planting spring-blooming bulbs, winterizing and general tidying. The effect of hitting every one of these tasks is that your yard will probably look tidier through fall and winter, and you'll have a bloomier spring. However, I was shocked at how little difference not doing these things ended up making. By November, leaves hid my yard under a multi-colored blanket. Then the snow settled over it. People still walked by, complimenting the garden, and I found myself wondering about all the time I’d saved. What surprised me even more was that come spring, the garden seemed prepared to mostly take care of itself. Plants sprung up on their own from what I hadn’t pulled last year. A tomato bed I didn’t plant at all this year filled itself with better volunteers (plants that grow wherever the seeds from last year fell) than I’d have planted. The effects of my laissez-faire attitude were there, for sure—the garden was less orderly. The Douglas Asters had migrated out of their bed into the clover; tomatoes and yarrow grew everywhere in and out of raised beds; and my artichokes didn’t make it through winter without their normal blanket of deep mulch. But the result was something new and interesting after 13 years of doing the same. 

More food for birds

Two years ago I planted a native berry island in my hellstrip, specifically for local wildlife and birds. Currants, osoberries, huckleberries, cranberries and other random berries replaced the grass that had never benefited me. Leaving the berries all winter became a fascinating study in local birding. I relocated my Haikubox—a smart recording device that identifies birdsong and reports it to you on your phone—near the islands, and was shocked by the variety of birds that made their way to my yard. By leaving my berries last year rather than gleaning the blueberry, raspberry, strawberry, boysenberry and blackberry bushes clean, those birds spread out across my yard, creating nests and finding roosts in boxes I left for them. It was the first winter I had a semi-successful winter crop—I usually lose them to slugs—and I think there’s a correlation between the birds and lack of slugs.

More resilient plants next year

It wasn’t only the berries—I left the tomatoes and eggplant and corn and peppers, and all the flowers, too. And though I did some cleanup come spring to clear for new plants, the seeds last fall’s plants had dropped were still in the soil, and they came up, making my garden more diversified than it had ever been. Those seeds had survived the winter, meaning the plants and fruit they bore were more resilient, too. They came up precisely when the ground was ready for them. In some cases, they came up in random places rather than where they were last year, dropped by bees and birds who’d been snacking. By spring, the plants that had been left in the soil were mostly composted on their own. I found myself thinking about the fact that I’d mostly been cleaning up the beds to make them look clean and orderly for my own satisfaction; the plants themselves had no need for this. 

Leaving leaves protects beneficial insects

I stopped removing leaves a number of years ago—I even take the leaves from neighbors, who will helpfully dump bags of them in the middle of my yard. I use my blower to move them into my beds, where they act as mulch, and they break down over winter. They also provide beneficial insects places to nest all winter. I struggle in spring not to clear them, but you want to wait until the temperature is warm enough, which means when you plant your tomatoes, you can clear the leaves. I suspect you’ll find at that point, the leaves have dealt with themselves through composting. Since I began doing this, I’ve started to see a return of swallowtail butterflies and solitary bees and have had less aphids. In the last year, I’ve had two bat sightings—enough to put up a bat house—and regular sightings on my security cameras of an opossum. Both are considered to be excellent signs of garden health. My water features now have frogs in them. 

My yard is healthier than ever because I’m doing less, and while my yard looks messier, that’s something I choose to be comfortable with. This year, I’m splitting the difference: taking down the trellises, doing all the pruning, but taking a light touch with my beds, and not worrying about leaves. You can pick and choose what aspects of fall cleanup you’ll undertake, but if you’re looking for an excuse to give yourself a little grace for not doing it all, here’s a good one: It may be healthier for you and your garden. 

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A Beginner's Guide to Becoming a Person Who Runs

Ever wish you were a runner? Whether you want to follow in our own Meredith Dietz's footsteps and run a marathon, or just want to get a little VO2max boost with something like a Norwegian 4x4 workout, you have to get comfortable with running. You probably have some questions about how, exactly, you “become” a runner, beyond putting on shoes and going outside. Fortunately, we have answers. Here are the most important things to master in your first few weeks.

Don’t overthink it

Before you start, it’s important to know that none of your early decisions will make or break you as a runner. Even if the worst happens—let's say you pick the wrong shoes and your feet hurt—you can try again with the benefit of hindsight.

You don’t even need to track your miles or follow a specific program, especially at first. While couch to 5K works for a lot of people, it’s also challenging enough that some folks find it discouraging. You may absolutely just go out and run until you feel like you need a break and then walk until you feel like running again and repeat until you feel like stopping.

The more you run, the easier it gets. Over time, slowly build up to a consistent schedule. Don’t think “How hard can I work today?” but rather, “How can I use this week to set myself up for success next week?”

Choose your shoes

You don’t need to shop for shoes before you start running. Any old sneakers can carry you a few miles, as long as they’re reasonably comfortable. It’s OK to plan a short loop—running around the block, for example—so you can bail if your shoes turn out to be uncomfortable.

As you get into the habit of running, you’ll want to buy a pair of shoes that you don’t use for anything else. While there are lots of different types of running shoes at many price points, and just as many opinions on who should wear what, the bottom line is this: whatever feels good when you run is the right shoe to wear.

To maximize your chances of finding the perfect shoes, go to a store that specializes in running—not athletics in general, but running. Fleet Feet is one chain, and there are plenty of independent running stores, too. The best thing about running stores is that most will accept returns, even if you’ve run a few miles and decided the shoes you bought aren’t right for you. There are also online shops that will let you return shoes that you've run in, so go with one of those. Brooks, Hoka, and Nike are just a few on the list.

Too hard to pick? You can't go far wrong with one of these. Think of it as me flipping a coin and picking for you:

• Brooks Glycerin 20: Men's, women's

• Asics Gel-venture 8: Men's, women's

• Nike Pegasus 39: Men's, women's

Or if you want to literally follow in my footsteps, I've been on a Nike Downshifter kick lately. Our resident marathoner Meredith swears by the Brooks Ghost.

Make a plan

You don't need a detailed program to get started, but I know you probably have questions about what a running routine should look like. Here are the answers, as they apply to beginners. (Feel free to add more mileage once you feel comfortable with the basics.)

• How long should I run? A good beginner run or run/walk is 20 to 30 minutes.

• How often should I run? Three times a week is good to start. It will be hard to make progress on less than that, so if you can only manage once or twice a week, aim to add at least one more day.

• Do I need to take rest days? If your runs make you feel sore, tired, or achy, put a rest day after each one. (You can do other exercise on those "rest" days, just not running.) Once your body adapts to the new routine, it's fine to run on back-to-back days. Once you're in the groove, it's OK to run every day as long as you do are a mix of easy and hard runs. The easy runs are your "rest" from the hard ones.

• What if I can only run a few minutes? Don't worry, any mix of running and walking still counts as a "run."

When it comes to beginner programs, couch to 5K has helped a lot of people get into the habit. It mixes walking and running, with a goal of getting you in shape to run five kilometers (about three miles) within nine weeks. That said, it isn't the perfect beginner program for everybody, and you don't have to start with this type of program if it's not speaking to you. You can just go out and run.

Pick out your clothes

As with shoes, your best beginner’s gear is whatever you already have. Grab comfortable workout clothes—say, shorts and a tank top if the weather is warm. On a cool day, you might want leggings or sweatpants along with a long-sleeved t-shirt. In the rain, add a baseball cap. In general, you’ll want to dress on the cooler side so you’ll be comfortable once your body heats up. We also have a temperature-by-temperature guide to winter running.

When you’re ready to buy clothes specifically for running, make sure you have at least two outfits (so you don’t have to do laundry every time you run) and aim for comfortable clothes. Synthetic fabrics (or washable wool) are great at wicking sweat, but cotton clothes will work in a pinch. The advantage of the synthetics is that they won't get soggy, but please remember to rinse them out after your workout to prevent the dreaded gym bag stink.

You can pay a ton for high quality workout gear, but there are great bargains to be had at discount stores. And if you’ve grabbed something from the back of your closet that seems to be working just fine, there’s no need to replace it if it keeps you happy. Don’t overcomplicate your clothes, despite what athletic gear marketing may tell you that you need.

If your anatomy requires a sports bra, be aware that this can be a tricky thing to shop for. The same bra that works fine for yoga or cycling may not be up to the task. In general, look for a wide band and wide straps, full coverage cups, and a snug fit. If you're having trouble finding what you need in stores, try Panache or Shefit.

Panache Women's High Impact Underwire Sports Bra, Black, 38F

$45.01 at Amazon

$75.00 Save $29.99

$45.01 at Amazon

$75.00 Save $29.99

Plan your route

In theory, you can run anywhere. In the real world, though, not everyone has a perfect running route just outside their door. Strava's mapping tools are a great way to find or create a great running route, so start there if you're unsure of the best places to run in your area.

You can also get a workout without roaming. Schools often have a running track that is open to the public at least some of the time; it’s perfect for intervals and other speedwork. And if you have access to a gym, don’t forget the treadmill. It can get boring, but mental tricks like quarter-mile checkpoints can help to keep your attention until you finish your run. Treadmills are great in bad weather, too, and parents take note: it’s a lot easier to drop your kids off at the gym’s babysitting room than to find a way to drag them with you on an outdoor route.

You don't need a watch

You may want a smartwatch to track your runs and other workouts, but you don't need one to actually get started. Phone apps can track your distance well enough to do the job, but runners were doing their thing for centuries before phones or watches were invented. Put in the time, and your body will recognize the progress, whether or not you have an app giving you specific numbers on it.

That said, if you want to use a watch, I won't stop you. All the major smartwatches have some kind of running mode, and we have a rundown of some of the better running watches here. It's hard to beat the Garmin Forerunner 265, in my opinion.

Garmin Forerunner 265 Running Smartwatch, Colorful AMOLED Display, Training Metrics and Recovery Insights, Black and Powder Gray

$449.99 at Best Buy

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My Favorite Amazon Deal of the Day: The M2 MacBook Air

Apple laptops stand the test of time, as Senior Tech Editor Jake Peterson explains in his piece about the M1 and M2 Apple chips still being of great value in 2024. The 13.6-inch 8GB RAM M2 MacBook Air, in particular, is currently down to its lowest price yet on Amazon, according to price-checking tools: $749 (originally $999) after a $250 discount.

(Note that the "silver" model is $899, but "midnight," "space grey," and "starlight" are all $749.) This is my favorite Amazon deal for today.

Apple 2022 MacBook Air Laptop with M2 chip

13.6-inch Liquid Retina Display, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD Storage, Backlit Keyboard, 1080p FaceTime HD Cam

$749.00 at Amazon

$999.00 Save $250.00

$749.00 at Amazon

$999.00 Save $250.00

The M2 MacBook Air dropped to $999 in April, shortly after the new M3 laptops were released. A deal was expected back then, and it was a great value for your money at that price. Then, October Prime Day brought yet another hefty discount, and days after the big sale event, it seems to be staying there. At $750, it's impressive enough to consider upgrading. If you have an M1, you can see the difference between the M1 and M2 and see if the upgrade is worth it for you. If you're considering the M2 or M3, you can see our full breakdown here.

If 256GB of SSD is not enough for you, the 512GB of SSD is also well discounted on Amazon at $949 (originally $1,199). And if you're looking for the bigger 15-inch screen, Best Buy's deal is your best bet at $1,249.99 (originally $1,499).

The M2 MacBook Air is arguably the best ultraportable Apple laptop, but it isn't the right choice for everyone. As Jake noted:

It sports the same design language, an M2 chip with an eight-core CPU and 10-core GPU with up to 24GB of memory, two Thunderbolt 4 USB-C ports (which does seem a bit low on a 15-inch machine), a MagSafe charging port, a 1080p webcam, and a display supporting a P3 color gamut with up to 500 nits of brightness. It even has the same 18-hour battery life claim, thanks to a larger battery driving the larger display.

The Air only comes with 8GB of RAM and a 256GB SSD, about as low of a memory and storage spec as you’ll find in a 2023 computer. Again, that might be just fine for your use: M2 is powerful, after all, and its design means you can do a lot with a small amount of RAM. But someday, 8GB of RAM isn’t going to cut it, and you won’t be able to upgrade the memory yourself. The same goes for storage: If you live your entire life in the cloud, 256GB might be plenty. But if you save any photos, videos, or other large files on your Mac, you’re going to eventually need to spring for an external drive perpetually attached to your computer, or else deal with constant storage management until you sell the computer.

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How to Hide Your Mac’s Mouse Cursor When It Won’t Go Away

When I'm watching a video on my Mac, I like to keep the experience as immersive as possible. I don't want to see notifications, the menu bar, or even the mouse cursor. It's pretty easy to put your Mac on Do Not Disturb and watch videos in full screen, which takes care of the first two problems, but the third one is a bit tricky. Sometimes, the mouse cursor simply refuses to disappear from my Mac's screen, either because the cursor is on a playback button, or because it's just buggy. Luckily, there are a few ways to hide the mouse cursor on your Mac every time, so you can get back to watching shows, movies, and YouTube videos in peace. 

Place the cursor somewhere unobtrusive

This is the most obvious way to deal with an errant mouse cursor. When you're watching a video in full-screen, place the cursor anywhere on the video (outside of the playback controls, mind you) and it should disappear. This has worked for me almost all the time, but when it doesn't it's quite annoying. It's gotten to the point where I usually move the cursor to the far right edge of the screen, so even if it fails to go away, it's not blocking much of my video.

Still, we shouldn't have to settle for this. If you want your cursor gone 100% of the time, try one of these tricks instead:

Press a key on your Mac's keyboard

Did you know you can use keyboard shortcuts to make your mouse cursor go away? There are actually multiple options here, and you may have to try a few to find one that works on your end, since you may have installed apps that have taken over some of those keyboard shortcuts. Here's a quick list of shortcuts that make the cursor disappear on your Mac:

• Press any key: Yes, really. Almost all keys on your Mac's keyboard can make the cursor disappear when in full-screen mode. Try this: move your cursor anywhere on the screen and press any key on your keyboard. The cursor should disappear after a second or two. It doesn't work with a few buttons such as Caps Lock, but in most cases, the cursor does disappear. The list of keys varies quite a bit because the key may be a shortcut in the app you're using. Eg: YouTube uses K for play/pause.

• F8 or F9: You can try moving the cursor once to see where it is, and then press either F8 or F9. Some people may have to press fn+F8 or fn+F9. The cursor should disappear in about a second.

• Command-.: The Command-full stop shortcut also makes the cursor disappear on some Macs. It doesn't work on my Mac because 1Password has taken over that shortcut, but this shortcut does appear to work for lots of people.

Use Cursorcerer to hide the mouse cursor on your Mac

If you want more control over the visibility of your Mac's mouse cursor, check out Cursorcerer. Once you've downloaded it, just double-click the downloaded file and Cursorcerer should be installed. It will appear under macOS' System Settings, as the last entry in the left pane. You can use that to configure a global hotkey for hiding or revealing the mouse cursor on your Mac. The default is Option-Control-K. By default, the cursor will reappear when you move your mouse. However, the same settings page also lets you hide the cursor automatically after a set time limit of inactivity, and lets you disable revealing the cursor when you move the mouse.

In short, you can use Cursorcerer to completely hide the mouse cursor if you want to. If you do this, only the keyboard shortcut will reveal the cursor. I don't recommend going that way at all. Ideally, you want to set a reasonable delay timer (say 15 seconds or so) before the cursor is hidden and have a keyboard shortcut to toggle the cursor's visibility. This way, you can easily find the cursor even if you forget the keyboard shortcut. You may just want to leave things as-is, too, and only rely on the shortcut to hide your cursor.

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